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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.