The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from construction by creating long-term, yielding farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Across Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over 150 vines perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a barrier on